This means we change the structure of our sentences, shortening and simplifying them. We also tend to speak with a higher pitch in our voices. We also do this when we are not sure we are understood or when talking to very young infants. A new study has shown we use an even higher pitch when talking to puppies, and that this tactic really does help the animals to pay attention more.
The research, published in the journal Proceedings of the Royal Society B , showed that talking to puppies using dog-directed speech makes them react and attend more to their human instructor than regular speech. Hello cutie! Come here! Good boy! Come here sweetie pie!
What a good boy! Each time, the speaker was asked to look at photos of either puppies, adult dogs, old dogs or at no photos. Analysing the recordings showed the volunteers did change how they spoke to different aged dogs. They found the puppies responded more strongly to the recordings made while the speakers looked at pictures of dogs the dog-directed speech.
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Showing of 7 reviews. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. Format: Kindle Edition Verified Purchase. There was a problem loading comments right now. Showing 0 comments. Sort by: Newest Oldest. Never came. This was awesome. I really appreciate all the info! I am sure I will learn a lot with my 3 dogs!! Great information!
One person found this helpful. Not as informative as I had hoped. Very short and not very helpful for puppies after 6 months. Not recommend. Format: Kindle Edition. As soon as he sits, give him immediate praise and reward. Don't repeat the command.
Dog & Puppy Training
You want the dog to respond on the first utterance, not the second, third, or fourth. If the dog does not perform the behavior within 2 seconds of your command, reinforce the command with the help of your leash. When you begin training a dog, never give a command that you are not in a position to reinforce. Otherwise, you risk training the dog to ignore you because there is no follow through from your end and the commands have no meaning.
Create a positive meaning for the dog with praise and consistency. Praise natural sitting behavior. Look for times throughout the day when your dog just sits on his own. Praise that behavior, and pretty soon you'll have a dog that sits for attention instead of jumping or barking at you. Get some food treats or a toy and find your dog. Hold the toy or treat in view so he focuses on you.
Use the treat or toy to encourage your dog to lie down. Do this by moving the toy or treat onto the ground in front of the dog, between his front legs. His head should follow it, and his body should follow shortly thereafter. Be accurate with your praise, too. If you praise him halfway down or up, that is the behavior you will get. Increase your distance. Always praise him immediately when his belly is on the ground. Dogs read body language well and learn hand signals quite quickly. Lengthen the "down. If he pops up to get the treat, do not give it to him, or you will be rewarding the last behavior he did before the treat.
Just start again, and the dog will understand that you want him all the way down on the ground, as long as you are consistent. Don't lean over your dog. Once your dog has caught onto the command, stand up straight when giving it. If you loom over him, you'll have a dog that only lays down when you are leaning over him. You want to work on being able to get your dog to lie down from across the room, eventually.
Teaching a dog to respect the threshold is important. You do not want a dog that runs out the door every time it opens — that could be dangerous for him. Doorway training doesn't need to happen every single time you go through a doorway. But you should make the most of your training opportunities early in your puppy's life. Place the dog on a leash.
You should have him on a short leash that allows you to change his direction from a close distance. If your dog moves to follow you when you step through the door, use the leash to stop his forward movement. Try again. Praise him when he waits.
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When he realizes that you want him to stay in the door instead of walking through it with you, lavish him with praise and rewards for the "good wait. Teach him to sit in the threshold. If the door is closed, you can even teach your dog to sit as soon as you place your hand on the doorknob. He'll then wait while the door is opened, and not cross the threshold until you release him.
This training should be done on leash at the beginning, for his safety. Give a separate command to encourage him through the doorway. You might use a "come" or a "free. Increase the distance. Practice leaving the dog at the threshold and do something on the other side. You might get the mail or take out the trash before you return and praise him.
The idea is that you do not always call him across the threshold to meet you. You can also come back to him. Have him wait patiently while you prepare his meal. Eventually, he will sit on his own as soon as he sees his feeding bowl. Hand feed your dog. At meal time, start feeding your dog out of your hand. Then use your hands to put the rest of the food in the bowl.
This should help fix or prevent any food aggression tendencies. To teach this command, do the following: Stage one: Hold a treat in your closed hand. The dog will probably lick, sniff, and paw at your hand in an attempt to get to the treat. Eventually, when the dog moves his nose away, praise him and give him the treat.
Stage three: Hold one treat in your palm in front of the dog and one behind you in the other hand. Stage four: Place the treat on the floor. Move the treat from your palm to the floor. Continue to reward your dog with the treat you have behind your back. If he eats the treat, go back to an earlier stage. Understand the command. Give your dog a toy to play with. As he takes the toy in his mouth, reward him for the behavior with praise. Plus, he gets to play with the toy! Transition to less rewarding objects.
It's easy for a dog to learn "take" when the object is so much fun! When he's mastered the connection between command and behavior, move on to boring objects. Examples might include newspapers, light bags, or anything else you might want him to carry. Do not get into a tugging match with the dog.
When you tug, the dog tugs back harder. The value of the "sit" and "wait" seem obvious, but you may not understand at first why the "stand" is an important skill to teach your dog. You won't use the "stand" every day, but you'll need it throughout the dog's life. For example, a dog who can stay calmly in a "stand" is the ideal patient at a vet clinic or client at a groomer's.
Prepare for the training session. Grab his favorite toy or prepare a handful of treats to both focus your dog's attention and reward him for learning the command. Put the dog in a starting "down" or "lie down" position when working with the "stand" command. He should move from lying down to standing up to get his toy or treats. You want to coax him into the standing position by having him follow the toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of his face, at nose height. If he sits, thinking that will earn him a reward, try again, but with the treat or toy slightly lower.
Encourage the dog to follow your hand. Flatten your hand with your palm down. If you're using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start with your hand in front of his nose and move it away a few inches. The idea is that the dog will stand up while following your hand. You may need to use your other hand to encourage him from underneath his hips to get the idea at first. As soon as he reaches the standing position, praise and treat. Although you haven't yet started using the verbal "stand" command, you can use it in your praise: "good stand!
Add the verbal "stand" command.maisonducalvet.com/gjar-conocer-chicos.php
Human Puppy Training Guide
At first, you will work only on getting your dog to stand by following the hand that holds his toy or treat. When he's mastered that concept, begin incorporating the "stand" command into the training sessions. There are many ways to combine commands. Eventually, you'll have your dog performing these commands from across the room.
On its own, this command is something of a novelty. Inexperienced trainers sometimes find "speak" training spirals out of control. They end up with a dog who barks at them all the time. Clicker train your dog. Teach your dog to associate the click sound with a treat by clicking and treating a few times in a row. Continue this clicker training until your dog sees the click sound as a reward in and of itself. The treat will come later. Figure out when your dog barks most. This will vary from dog to dog, so you have to observe your specific pet.
Reader Success Stories
He might bark most reliably when you withhold a treat, when someone knocks on the door, when someone rings the doorbell, or when someone honks a horn. Recreate the triggering event. The idea is to encourage him to bark on his own, then praise him for the action. You can see how this might be dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced trainer.
That's why "speak" training is a little different from the other commands. You'll incorporate the verbal command from the very beginning. That way, the dog doesn't think you're praising him for his natural behavior. Use the verbal "speak" command from the beginning. As soon as your dog barks for the very first time, give the verbal "speak" command, click, and give him a treat. The other commands thus far have taught the behavior first, then added a command that preceded the behavior.
However, "speak" training gets out of hand too easily that way. The dog gets rewarded for barking at first. Thus, it's better to associate the verbal command with the behavior already in progress.
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Never reward the dog for barking without the verbal command. If you have a dog who naturally barks too much, you might not think teaching him to "speak" is going to help your situation. However, if you teach him to "speak," then you can also teach him to "quiet. Give the "speak" command. However, instead of rewarding the "speak" barking , wait until the dog stops barking. Give the verbal "quiet" command. If the dog remains silent, reward the "quiet" no barking with a click and a treat.
Understand the value of crate training.
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You might think it cruel to pen a dog up in a crate for hours at a time. But dogs are instinctively den animals, so confined spaces are not as oppressive to them as they are to us. In fact, crate trained dogs will seek out their crates as a source of comfort. Crate training is a useful way to manage your dog's behavior when he's unsupervised for extended periods of time. For example, many owners crate their dogs when they go to sleep or leave the house. Begin crate training young. Although older dogs can be taught to enjoy their crates as well, it's easier to train a young dog. If your puppy is a large breed, don't train him in a large crate that you think he'll grow into.
Dogs won't relieve themselves where they sleep or relax, so you need the crate to be appropriately sized. If you use a crate that's too large, he might urinate in the far corner of it because he has so much space. Make the crate an inviting space. You want him to create a positive association with the crate, so that he enjoys his time in there.
When you begin the crate training process, place the crate somewhere the household gathers. The idea is to make the crate part of the social scene rather than a place of isolation. Place a soft blanket and some of your dog's favorite toys inside the crate. Encourage him to enter the crate. Once you've made the crate an inviting space, use treats to lure him inside.
At first, place some outside the door so he can explore the exterior of the crate. Then, place treats just inside the door, so he will poke his head in to retrieve them. As he grows more comfortable, place the treats further and further inside the crate. Do this until your dog enters the crate without hesitation. Always speak in your "happy voice" when acclimating your dog to the crate.
Feed the dog in his crate. Once he's comfortable entering the crate for treats, reinforce the positive association with mealtime. Place his dog bowl wherever he's comfortable eating. If he's still a little anxious, you might have to place it right by the door. As he grows more comfortable over time, place the dog bowl further back into the cage. Begin closing the door behind him. With treats and feeding, you'll find that your dog is growing more acclimated to being in the crate. He still needs to learn how to cope with the door being closed. Begin closing the door at mealtime, when the dog too distracted by his food to notice what's going on at first.
Close the door for very short periods, lengthening the time as the dog grows more comfortable.
Don't reward the dog for whining. When a puppy whines, it may be adorable and heartbreaking, but when a grown dog whines, it can drive you nuts. If your puppy whines inconsolably, you may have left him inside the crate for too long. However, you cannot release him from the crate until the whining stops. Remember — every reward you give reinforces the dog's last behavior, which was whining in this case. Instead, release the dog once he's stopped whining. The next time you close the door on the crate, leave him in for a shorter period of time.
Comfort your dog during long crate sessions. If your puppy cries when he's alone in the crate, bring the crate into your bedroom at night. Have a tick tock clock or white noise machine to help the puppy get to sleep.